Silver clay? What the heck is that? Is it clay

Silver clay, precious metal clay, art metal clay, and art clay silver are all different terms and types of 'clay' that can be magically turned into gold and silver.

These new metal clays have been around since the nineties. Jewelry hobbyists and designers can now mold and form expensive metal as easily as pottery clay.

Jewelry making of course has a long history. The difference nowadays is that you now do not have to bang or cast your metal to make jewellery if you do not want to. Silver clay now makes it feasible to make real metal forms without these traditional methods.

Here is how metal clay works. Gold and silver metal clays are made from fine metal particles suspended in an organic binder. This binder lets you mildew and shape the clay as you would potter's clay. Once you are pleased with the form, you let your project dry for at least 24 hours ( or more ). You then fire it in a kiln or by using a hand torch. The binder burns away, leaving the fused metal behind in the form you shaped it.

Before you grab a lump of silver clay and go at it though, you will need to keep a few rules in mind. Silver clay is not cheap, so you do not need to waste it.

Silver Clay Tips

Here are a bunch of tips for working with silver clay :

*Metal clays shrink 10-30% when fired. Be certain to check your package for shrinkage levels particularly if you're making rings or other objects that must be actual fits.

*Not all metal clays can be hand torch fired. If you won't be using a kiln be certain to check that your kind of silver clay is 'low fire'.

*Only small pieces should be torch fired. Pieces bigger than 25g should be kiln fired.

*Silver clay isn't cheap. The gold version particularly is terribly costly. Be sure to shop carefully and follow instructions carefully so you do not burn your money needlessly.

*Metal Clay simply takes on impressions of other objects ( and fingerprints too ). Play around with different textures and objects to make imprints onto the wet clay.

*Gemstones that can resist the heat of firing can be set into the wet clay.

*Be sure to let your metal clay dry fully before firing. Firing damp clay won't work and you will not be a contented camper.

*Metal clays are sticky to the touch so be sure to coat everything with a thin film of olive oil or other release agent. This implies coat your hands, your tools, and working surface. Just a touch of oil will do, so don't go too far.

*You can improve drying time by placing your piece in a low heat range. ( 150-200 degrees fahrenheit ). Pieces finely than your palm usually take about 24 hours to entirely dry and harden without the cooker treatment.

*Sand your dried and toughened piece before firing. If you don't like fingerprints, you will not be able to remove them after firing.

*Metal clay is water soluble and can be fell with water. Keep a little bowl of water or a spritzer handy while you work. If it begins to dry out while working, you are able to add a bit of water to dampen it.

*Buying smaller packages beats larger as you will not have to stress about the entire block drying out. The price difference is negligible, and you can waste extra money by needing to thru out old dried out clay.

*You can extend the working time of your metal clay by adding a drop or 2 of glycerin ( available at chemists ) to your newly opened package of silver clay. To use : make a depression with your thumb in the clay, and add a drop or 2 of glycerin. Fold the clay a couple of times to mix in the glycerin, then spritz with water. Encase in plastic wrap and let sit so the clay can soak up the glycerin. When you work with the clay the following day, use as always. This trick will extend the working time, but also extends the drying time required before firing.

*If you see a blackish mold, do not be disturbed. This will burn away when firing. This mold happens when you use regular tap water to moisten the clay.

*Playing cards make great 'spacers' when rolling out clay to an even thickness. Just stack cards on either side of the clay, then use your roller to roll out the clay between the cards.

*To store metal clay between uses, be totally sure to spritz with water and wrap it well with plastic wrap.

*different clays have different firing temperatures so be certain to match your firing temperature to your clay type.

*Once fired, you must brush and burnish it to get a great shine. First brush well with a stiff brush to loosen any ash or residue, then rinse with water. Then you'll be wanting to burnish the metal to squeeze it, make it smoother, and shinier. Use a burnishing tool made from agate or metal for this. The tool has a smooth face and pointy tip for burnishing the more detailed areas.

*You can dunk the piece in water after firing to cool it quickly .

*Firing you clay too shortly, at too low a temperature, or for too short a time may lead to your project to break. Firing for too long may melt some of the detail.

Now you have some silver clay tenets, I bet you are psyched. You wish to work with this innovative material now! What will you make first?