John Ward Sepp. 1989 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996. To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them. There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process. Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com. The glazed tiles are beautiful, durable and moisture-proof. It is necessary to clean regularly in order to keep it sparkling. If the tiles are damaged or the filling between them- Called grouting- Starting to deteriorate, timely and skilled repair is essential. The key to cleaning glazed tiles is to know which cleaner to use. To remove the thin soap film from the bath and shower walls and do general cleaning, most non-abrasive household cleaners do this. The same is true of cleaning agents for ceramic tiles. To remove hard- Water deposition, using a tile cleaner containing mild acid, is specially used for this work. This detergent usually removes thick soap film as well. There are cleaners in the family center and many supermarkets. For neglected tiles with a large amount of sediment or film, a cleaner with stronger acid is sold in the tile shop. Operate carefully according to the manufacturer\'s instructions, especially acid products. With these products, be sure to protect your eyes, wear rubber gloves with cuffs and provide adequate ventilation. Remove the ads of mold and wash the tiles with a glass of home bleach and a solution of a gallon of water; Commercial products were also produced for this purpose. Use the same precautions as acid cleaners. Don\'t mix bleach with mildew. Remove the product using any other chemical, including acid cleaner and ammonia. You may be seriously hurt by the smoke that may result. The ad left the bleach solution in the moldy area at least two minutes before flushing with clear water. Please follow the label when using commercial anti-mildew agent. Mold is a fungus whose presence indicates an unusually high moisture content. This can usually be corrected by an exhaust fan or a dehumidifier, or by opening the shower curtain or tub case as much as possible. This should prevent mold from coming back after it is cleared. Mildew may also indicate damage to or wrong structures that accumulate moisture behind or below the tile. If quick repairs are not carried out, this may loosen the tiles and destroy the surfaces such as the walls, floors and countertops below. Find mildew and find a place to repair. There may be a lack of grouting between the tiles, or the seam sealing device around the soap plate, the bathtub or the edge of the sink and the corner may have been damaged. Replace old material with new Remove the old one first if necessary Use the method described below. Make sure the faucet and faucet are tight and do not leak from the decorative collar covering the ceramic tile surface opening. After cleaning with acid cleaner or mildew proof for ceramic tile, after cleaning five or six times with ordinary household cleaner, it can be given two layers of silica gel sealing agent to keep the gloss and protect it from pollution, and make it easier to clean. The sealer for sale in the tile shop is applied by spray or foam applicator. To repair a lost or damaged mud or seam sealing device, remove the old material first. Mud saw is usually used to remove mud. It has a curved handle and a short and rough handle Slightly larger than the blade with teeth saw blade. Some professionals recommend a carbide Known as Durrock knife. Some tile shops have these two tools, but there is only one in most stores. Dig out as much mud as possible to reach a depth of at least a quarter of an hour. Scrub the joints with a brush or old toothbrush. Wash the area with acid cleaner and rinse with plenty of water. Apply Fresh mud when the seams are wet. The use of a pre-mixed grout mixture with latex is the easiest and can be bought in cans in the home center and in the tile shop. For a large area, powder grouting that needs to be mixed with water may be cheaper, although it is more tricky to use. Disperse the grouting into the joint with a moist finger ( Wear gloves if you\'re doing a big area) A rubber scraper or an old credit card. Press it hard to push it into the seam as much as possible. Then smooth the surface with the toothbrush handle or the curved end of the wooden press tongue. Let the grouting Harden for about 15 minutes or as long as the instructions above can be recommended. Then wipe off the excess with a sponge soaked in water and dry as much as possible. Be careful not to remove fresh mud from the seams. Be sure to clean the excess mud thoroughly. If the residue is completely hardened, in addition to using a strong acidic cleaner, it forms smoke on tiles that are difficult to remove. After re-grouting and cleaning, polish the tiles with a soft and dry cloth. Let the mud solidify for 72 hours; Then cover the two layers of silicone sealer. To remove the old seam sealing device, dig it out with an ice cone or thin single pick Blade. Then scrub the area with a brush, wash it with a household cleaner and let it dry. Before using the new sealer, wipe the seam surface with mineral spirits to remove any soap film or detergent. Then, slice at a certain angle and cut off the tip of the silicone or vinyl adhesive sealer ( Commonly referred to as a bath and tile sealer or adhesive cauldron). As you move along the tube, fill the seam by steadily squeezing the sealer from the tube. Usually, pushing the tube, instead of pulling it while squeezing, will fill the seam better; Lean the inclined side against the seam. After that, smooth the seam with damp fingers. A version of this article appears on page C00004 of the National edition on September 7, 1989, with the title: Home improvement.
